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The Rupee Room
By: Antoinette Buckley, TIMEOFF
09/12/2007
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You are likely to encounter some pleasant surprises here, whether it involves an undiscovered flavor combination or an eye-opening presentation.


   Thinking outside the box is second nature for Jagmohan and Matinee Singh, husband and wife owners of a mini empire of local Asian restaurants. The Rupee Room in North Brunswick is the youngest of four restaurants owned and operated by the Singh family. Each restaurant is fresh and appealing. The Royal Orchid in East Windsor serves Thai-French, Aroma in Franklin Park cooks up more traditional Thai, and The Noodle House in North Brunswick finds success as a "trendy Asian Bistro." The Rupee Room, on Route 1 in North Brunswick, is the first to offer Indian cuisine in honor of Mr. Singh's native land. However, this is not just another Indian restaurant. Mr. Singh has teamed up with his daughter, Pooja Singh, to create something different in Indian dining.

The Rupee Room
2215 US Highway 1
North Brunswick
(732) 398-9022
www.www.therupeeroom.us

Food: Very good +
Service: Very good
Prices: Appetizers $5.95-$9.95; entrées $12.95-$24.95; desserts: $6.95-$8.95.
Cuisine: Indian Fusion
Atmosphere: Contemporary
Vegetarian and Vegan Options: There is a vegetarian menu, and some of these are made without butter or cheese, such as tandoori vegetables, Kabouli channa, masala eggplant and My Lotus.
Hours: Lunch: Mon.-Sun. noon-3 p.m.; Dinner: Mon.-Thurs. 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sun. 5-11 p.m.
Essentials: Accepts all major credit cards; BYO; wheelchair accessible; reservations recommended.
Directions

   In the business for more than 30 years, Mr. Singh has a background in French cuisine. He has enjoyed an admirable career as a chef that has taken him all over the world. Now, at the Rupee Room, Mr. Singh's passion and his daughter's determination to exceed boundaries have formed a modern Indian dining experience. Both father and daughter are hosts extraordinaire, visiting tables to assure smooth operations. The Rupee Room is their baby, and thus the restaurant's egocentric headings were born: "MyAppetizers," "MySoup," "MyTandoor," "MyRice" and so on, culminating in the Web site www.myrestaurants.us, representing all four restaurants. More than a personal reference of ownership, however, these titles are a take off of the modern, MySpace, iChat world in which we live.
   The extensive Indian fusion menu pulls distinguishing flavors from all over India as well as many other countries. Menu choices leap off the page — page after page. Many arrangements are gutsy pairings of the expected with the unexpected and I have yet to meet the dish that doesn't harmonize.
   Choosing from such a far-reaching menu is the only taxing part of the evening. Leave the rest up to management and the capable staff. A full experience awaits. It begins with a little pampering in the form of a hot, damp, rose-scented cloth with which to cleanse before the meal. As your hands are momentarily blanketed in warmth, your ears absorb the sound of trickling water against the backdrop of a techno beat intrinsic in the alternative music of choice. While that's all happening your eyes take in the icy essence of glass that surrounds. Glass water sculptures, glass tables and glass panels from floor to ceiling are accompanied by a slow-paced lighting show that continuously changes the colors of these panels. All this culminates in a new age, Zen-like atmosphere that is unique to The Rupee Room. This restaurant's impeccable attention to detail is impressive, especially when considering the moderate prices.
   The flatware, china, serving plates and test tube-like water glasses are carefully thought out, as is the presentation of every dish. Food is art here. Thin curls of carrot and beet brighten many plates while all components are positioned for a visual effect. Presentations incorporate height, depth and color. The Patiala lamb chops ($21.95) are a testament to that. From the tandoor oven, four chops come to the table hanging symmetrically on a skewer. This dish and its accoutrements are beautifully presented and to add to its grandeur, the lamb is flambéed tableside (as are all the tandoor dishes). The tender chops test the limits of a palate accustomed to mild flavors with an invigorating rub made up of chickpea flour, ginger, coriander and Kashmiri chili powder. Four accompanying sauces vary the bite's results, but none can do much more for the flavor of the meat that is already at its peak.
   The food at The Rupee Room is most traditional when it comes to curries. From the "Make Your Own Curry" section of the menu, you select the style of curry and pair it with the meat, seafood or vegetable of your choice. Our table opted for the Bombay masala with chicken ($15.95). The chicken, tomatoes and onions were wonderfully infused with the flavors of ginger, garlic, cilantro and exotic spices. A bit more of this dish's gravy would have suited the naan ($2.95) and peppery choora paratha (whole wheat puff bread, $3.95) better. Accompanying breads come in unique flavors, the smoked salmon, thyme and olive oil naan ($5.95) being Mr. Singh's favorite. A side of rice scented with either saffron or cumin seed ($4.95) is surprisingly a separate charge.
   Mr. Singh exercises his enthusiasm for fusion most boldly in the "MyFusion" entrée section of the menu and "MyAppetizers" section. Since appetizers are not a traditional Indian custom, Mr. Singh takes liberties. East meets West, South and North. Synergy is created when Indian spices nestle up against the offbeat of Indian cuisine. Avocado, smoked salmon, lobster, duck and cheese sticks find a rightful place on this menu. In addition to inventing new flavor combinations, Mr. Singh likes to tweak old favorites. The roasted corn and garlic signature soup ($5.95) is just lovely as it mimics the classic tom kha khai, a traditional Thai soup that celebrates the flavor of coconut.
   Spicy shrimp chaat with avocado ($9.95) is loveable. Spiced shrimp are paired with an avocado salsa that bursts with the flavors of cumin and cilantro while the mango-tamarind sauce that accompanies makes a match out of spicy and sweet. Chappli lamb kebab ($8.95) comes layered with ground lamb patties, tomato, lettuce and a mint sauce that tingles the tongue. Put that stack in a bun, and the hamburger has just been reinvented.
   Dessert offerings are more extensive than most Indian restaurants and are created by the talented pastry chef Syed Shah, who has worked with Mr. Singh for 24 years. Strawberry kulfi ($7.95) pairs the traditional frozen milk dessert with the untraditional flavoring of strawberry successfully. Surrounding kiwi puree, kiwi slices, mango and sweet paneer dumplings create a sweet and brightly colored plate. The crème brulee is accented with coconut, a flavor to be appreciated with this sturdy custard. Even better are the accompanying date and walnut rolls and that magnificent honey ginger sauce.
   You are likely to encounter some pleasant surprises at The Rupee Room, whether it involves an eye-opening presentation, an undiscovered flavor combination, a complimentary beverage, or the compelling atmosphere itself. Whatever your visit brings, you are bound to enjoy the ride.

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