TK is a marinated and baked version of tofu that is a product of Ithaca Soy, a company which has passed through a number of hands in its roughly 25 years of existence. Ithaca Soy was founded by Rob Shapiro, then sold in the mid-80s to three people living on local communes: David Scovronick, Steve Sierigk and Jonathan Kline. Sierigk and Kline later sold their interests to Scovronick, who in turn sold to Michael Pan, a native of Taiwan who continues to operate an Asian food market, Ithaca Tofu, in the Small Mall on Cinema Drive. Pan then sold Ithaca Soy, and after some twists and turns, it is now in the sole ownership of Thom Trause, who previously had worked in a number of vegetarian-oriented establishments including ABC Café and the Oasis Market.
Ithaca Soy is located in a small industrial area on Fourth Street in Ithaca's north side, adjacent to The Tile House and Ithaca Ice. On a recent guided tour, Trause introduced me to his staff of soy experts Kelly and Patrick, and shared some of the secrets of tofu, and in particular the creation of TK.
As familiar a product as tofu has become, perhaps not all are aware that it is essentially a cheese made from soybean milk.
Ithaca Soy obtains all its soybeans from the Potenza Organic Farm, located just over the Seneca County line in Covert. The beans are ground, then placed in an 80-gallon kettle, where they are mixed with water and subjected to direct steam. After 12 minutes, the mixture is pumped into a press to extract the soy milk.
After further filtering, the cheese-making process is begun by the introduction of a coagulant. Trause opts for calcium sulfate, which yields Chinese-style tofu, rather than the more temperamental magnesium chloride, or nigari, used in Japanese-style tofu production. The mixture is paddled, and curds begin to form. Eventually the whey begins to separate, and the curds take on a tapioca texture.
Most of the whey is discarded, and the curds are poured into molds where they are pressed. Depending on the length of pressing and the amount of liquid originally left in the mixture, the result is tofu of three levels of firmness: soft, firm and extra firm.
When pressing is complete, the result is cut into bricks and placed in a water bath to cool down and firm up. That is the end of the process for everyday tofu. But TK undergoes some additional crucial steps. Rather than being cooled in water, the tofu bars are marinated overnight in a mixture of soy sauce, barley malt and a secret assortment of spices. After an overnight stay in the marinade, the bricks are baked for 5-6 hours in a gas-fired oven, and when they emerge - voila! - TK. Some of the product is vacuum packed on the premises for sale to markets, the rest sold in bulk to restaurants and outlets like GreenStar. Yearly TK production is in the range of 30,000 pounds.
Says Trause: "What I like about TK is the simplicity and the consistency. It is what it is - the same product, year after year. It's a staple, not a fad." He also appreciates the sustainability of the process. Made from local soybeans, even the pulpy byproduct - okara - finds a use as sheep food.
TK's taste is recognizable as tofu, but the marinade imparts some spicy but not overpowering zip. The texture is both pleasantly crunchy and chewy. That consummate alternative Ithacan Paul Glover [now gone to other green pastures] once wrote that Ithaca is the kind of progressive city "where kids at GreenStar whine for tofu kan rather than candy," and GreenStar lead dairy stocker Stephanie confirms that local kids do indeed have a craving for the stuff. Among other local markets carrying TK are Ludgate's on Hanshaw, the aforementioned Ithaca Tofu in the Small Mall, and Wegmans.
Prices run from $1.79-2.99 for a 6-ounce brick.
TK is also a popular ingredient in the cuisine of many Ithaca food establishments. At CTB Appetizers in the Triphammer Mall, Guy Emerson explains that TK is used in a wide variety of dishes, from pre-made sandwiches, to summer rolls - a rice wrapper filled with lettuce, cucumber, bean sprouts and TK served with a sweet chili sauce. Julienned for salads, TK has even been prepared as a shish kebab for a wedding at which the bride wanted a vegetarian main dish.
Thirty-year Moosewood veteran and co-owner Dave Hirsch describes a number of TK dishes on the famed establishment's menu: Thai Tofu; veggie moo shu; Chinese hot & sour soup and the ' BLTease' - where smoked cheddar substitutes for bacon.
At the ABC Café, chef Gavin mentions that TK is an ingredient in the very popular Viet Salad, and is also prepared in julienne strips in omelettes and deep-fried in sandwich pouches.
Juna's Café on the Commons offers a California salad in which TK is accompanied by mixed baby greens, avocado, brown rice, carrots, tomatoes and sunflower seeds.
TK has even made its way to Cornell's Arts Quad, where it is part of the spicy Asian soup in the Temple of Zeus in Goldwin Smith Hall.
Other local restaurants featuring TK-based dishes include the Lost Dog Café on S. Cayuga and Taste of Thai on The Commons.
Be it at a local restaurant, part of your home-based cuisine, or even as a healthy snack, try tofu kan soon, and become part of a food tradition close to the spiritual heart of Ithaca.
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